Strength and Length

The main thing I have found in my natural hair journey is that there was only ONE thing I needed to do to move from the "stuck" position (where my hair grew to a certain length, then started to break off). That one thing was for ME to recognize that I was doing all the harm to my hair! My hair began to grow and STAY healthy once I got to "know" MY hair! Once I understood that EVERY new product was not necessarily good for MY hair...once I understood that my hair growth rates were not the same as my Mother's or my aunts....once I figured out that all of us have small ---but extremely important--- differences in our hair growth cycles.....then I was able to get out of the "stuck" position! Here are the top 5 reasons why hair does not gain strength and length:

1. YOU IGNORE BREAKAGE. This is the top reason and if you read no further, at least read the next two paragraphs.

If you have been stuck at a particular length for a long time, the most likely reason is that you have split ends which are breaking off your hair at the same rate as it is growing. The only reasonable thing to do is to trim your hair and by "trim", I mean cut 2-3 inches off. I could tell you to just look for splits/knots, then trim them off. But the reality is that it is very had to do a "search and destroy" on short hair which you cannot see properly. If you have a trusted hair stylist who'll do this for you.....consider yourself blessed and get it done.

The second form of breakage that is largely ignored are those short, little, quarter-inch end segment breaks that happen with very kinky hair (like mine). While it is not possible to fully eliminate breakage entirely, it is possible to reduce it to a minimal level by being very gentle, choosing gentle de-tangling methods and being patient when handling your hair.

2. YOU OVER-MANIPULATE THE HAIR. Let me tell you....puffs and Afros are addictive. I used to love 'em....love 'em.....love THEM! Not anymore. Why? Because although they are a simple, cute and protective styles, most of us leave them in too long...........causing the hair to tangle, knot and break! Truth be told, ANY "protective" styles will cause damage if left in "too" long. When we do decide to change the style, the time and effort required to unravel the strands and remove lint can (and will!) cause a lot of damage.

For those with looser curls, styles like twists which are normally regarded as protective may be terrible for you, if they unravel easily and you may be tempted to constantly use a drying gel, which definitely does not help your hair. Curly hair likes to be free! When you "bind" it (with hair clips, gel, barrettes, bands, etc.), it will complain bitterly when it's time to remove the bind (another example of over manipulation). The top signs are breakage, tangling and knotting. Find a happy medium with your hair.

3.YOU ARE STILL HUNTING FOR THAT "MAGIC" PRODUCT. There are no magic products. There are people who have seemingly terrible product choices but great hair and similarly people with great product choices and terrible hair.

The thing to understand about hair length retention is that it is largely mechanical damage that really does you in. Mechanical damage meaning how you physically break your hair. Hair products mainly mask damage, what you can do is prevent damage in the first place. You and your hair handling methods are the most important tools, over and above products.

4.YOU ARE FOLLOWING SOMEONE ELSE'S REGIMEN. Never ever make the mistake of not listening to YOUR hair. If someone swears by heat training, that does not mean it will for you. If someone swears by coconut oil, that does not mean it will work for you.

There is nothing wrong with experimenting with any method, product or routine. There IS something wrong with failing to see that it is not working for your hair. Always pay attention to if your hair breaks, or feels less than ideal.

5. YOU ARE STILL USING TOO MUCH HEAT. I've said this before, and it's important to repeat this: Length retention has a huge mechanical component to it. That component is HEAT. Heat ultimately degrades hair. For some people, regular heat use is not a big problem, as their hair is able to cope with it; for others, even slight heat is an issue.

Learn how YOUR hair behaves. Do not choose "style" or "ease" over and above hair health. It may be easier to handle your hair when its curls are not as tight but consider doing a heat free method such as curl formers, braids/twists or banding. The finer and kinkier your hair, the less likely it is to be able to take a lot of heat.

Ladies, have you been guilty of any of these mistakes I've made?

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